At Copenhagen Fashion Week, where environmental responsibility is a core principle, Swedish designer Yulia Kjellsson of Sson Studios notably chose to spotlight the climate crisis in her Spring 2027 collection. Her inspiration, drawn from 20th-century travel advertisements and resort fashion, led her to contemplate how future travel aspirations might transform as rising temperatures make traditional European getaways less appealing. This collection, presented under the “Ones to Watch” program, starkly contrasts the conventional lightheartedness of resort wear with a critical look at an impending environmental crisis.
The runway show’s aesthetic dramatically underscored this theme; the setting featured sand dunes littered with debris, hinting at a future that is simultaneously glamorous and unsettling. Kjellsson articulated her approach to upcycling, explaining that her designs explore changing values in a world facing ecological challenges. While the models exuded confidence and style, enjoying a fictional beach scenario, the audience was presented with a starker reality: a tarnished beach, an oppressive atmosphere, and clothing that, despite its initial appeal, subtly conveyed discomfort through deliberate imperfections. Garments such as a gray terry top with a perpetual wet look, simulating the imprint of a bikini, and a navy trench coat with stubbornly upturned hems, captured a sense of stop-motion unease and a world slightly off-kilter.
Further enhancing the collection's impact, Sson revitalized a popular bag skirt from the previous season with a coordinating top. Collaborating with Puma, the collection featured distinctive footwear like the Speedcat Jelly and Speedcat Fleur Mesh, swiftly becoming coveted items. The collection culminated with a striking polka-dot finale dress, designed to be versatile enough for a festive occasion or a dramatic, volcanically-charged backdrop, symbolizing both aesthetic excellence and practical design. Kjellsson's collection serves as a poignant reflection on our planet's future, urging us to consider the implications of climate change on even the most luxurious aspects of human experience.
